Even when it’s rainy and gray, Paris remains a magical place. The heart of the city shimmers no matter the weather, the rain drops reflecting on the cobblestone streets and the gold of the setting sun glowing on the Seine. On my most recent trip to France, my daughter, a friend, and myself, spent a whirlwind 28 hours in the city. We had no plan, no guide, and no mapped-out schedule. The only commitments we had were a hotel reservation and a dinner reservation with friends. And as plans usually go, having no plan was probably what made it most special.
Midday Arrival in the Heart of the Left Bank
Our adventure began upon arrival at Paris Orly Airport. We flew direct from Miami to Paris on the newer airline, French Bee. Our flight was on time and uneventful. The primarily French airline staff were helpful and accommodating, though we did wish we had upgraded to the Premier cabin as the seats were a little tight. But for the price, the meal was decent, and the plane was fresh and new. I especially loved the denim uniforms worn by the attendants, presumably a nod to denim being invented in Nimes, France!
From the airport, we had prearranged a private driver to pick us up and deliver us to the doorstep of our hotel, which I highly recommend if it’s in your budget. We paid a bit more, but the vehicle was immaculate and the driver more than professional and very attentive. He delivered us right to the front curb of Hotel Eugenie, located in the heart of the Latin Quarter on Saint Andre des Arts and just a short walk away from the Ile de la Cite, Notre Dame, and the Louvre museum. Listed as a 3-star hotel, I was a little disappointed in our room – small, worn, and overlooking a dismal courtyard – but the location is AMAZING, and the staff were friendly and attentive. And per their website, the hotel is classified as a historical monument and has hosted the likes of the Three Musketeers and Oscar Wilde!
Once we checked in and freshened up, we immediately set out on foot to explore our surroundings and my most favorite part of Paris in the central area along the Seine. Strolling the narrow streets of the 6th arrondissement, the newly reopened bell towers of Notre Dame came into view as we made our way to the Ile de la Cite – familiar and as awe-inspiring as ever. Crossing the bridge to the Right Bank, the rhythm of Paris bustled with tourists and traffic. Cafes buzzed, umbrellas bobbed, and the light rain laid a wet blanket along the cobbled, historic streets. There’s such a beautiful contrast of ancient architecture with the modernity of 21st century life.
Late Afternoon Indulgence & Divine Dining
No trip to Paris would be complete without a visit to one of the many decadent cafes and restaurants. For us, that meant a late afternoon respite at the historic Angelina’s patisserie and restaurant on the Rue de Rivoli. Best known for their viral chocolat chaud a l’ancienne – a thick, velvety, perfectly Parisian hot chocolate – many call this a tourist trap due to their popularity and long lines. However, the Belle Epoque interiors, gilded mirrors and marble counters, beckon you to that time not so long ago, and the glamour of turn-of-the-century Paris, set so romantically in the minds of those who love the city. I had to have the famous Mont Blanc dessert and I can confirm, it was DIVINE!
After lunch, we wandered through the Jardins des Tuileries, a timeless oasis running between the Place de la Concorde and the Louvre. The pebbled paths glistened in the rain, statues watching solemnly among the chestnut trees, while ducks paddled happily in the fountains. Even under gray skies, the gardens were serene and elegant. And while we did not have time or tickets to tour inside the Louvre, we couldn’t resist a good photo-op, pausing to admire the enormity of this beautiful former palace. In the center courtyard, the modern glass pyramid designed by I.M. Pei rises like an arrow point, revealing a peek into the subterranean heart of the world’s most famous museum.
To end an already amazing day, we returned to our hotel briefly to change for dinner, walking the short distance through the 6th to meet up with our friends for dinner at Bouillon Racine. Like a scene from the movie Midnight in Paris, this Art Nouveau gem tucked into a quiet street near the famous Sorbonne, offers curving architecture, mirrored walls, and a dreamy celadon green interior. Originally opened in 1906, this and other bouillon restaurants emerged in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, serving classic French dishes at reasonable prices, (see full menu here), making them more accessible to the general public. And over an amazing meal, wine and champagne flowed, as we broke baguette with our friends surrounded by locals, marking a beautiful end to our whirlwind day.
Bookish Beginnings and Sacred Spaces
The following morning, we rose early to take our chances at getting entry into Notre Dame de Paris. Having attempted a reservation on the church website to no avail, we initially thought we wouldn’t be able to get in. However, we arrived early and found no line outside and the option for entry WITHOUT a reservation. Thrilled to get in, as we stepped inside the newly restored cathedral, it was comforting to see she still carries her awe-inspiring grace and beauty despite the damage she received in the devastating 2019 fire. Seeing her reborn and renewed was deeply moving, the soaring cathedral eerily quiet, the air filled with reverence – a reminder of the resilience of this ancient sanctuary and the city she calls home.
After our tour of the cathedral, we crossed back to the Left Bank, stopping for pastries and coffee at Shakespeare & Company Cafe on the edge of the Seine while we waited for the shop to open. Being some of the first visitors in line, we strolled through the legendary Shakespeare & Co. bookstore, a famous haven for booklovers from all over the world. A trip to Paris isn’t complete without picking up a keepsake book stamped with their iconic logo – a perfect literary souvenir!
Churches and Gardens Galore
The Left Bank and the Latin Quarter always feel more intimate, quietly beautiful, and a bit Bohemian. After leaving the bookshop and without any real plan, we strolled a few feet down the Square Rene Viviani to discover – completely by accident – a smaller church, quietly resting just a short distance from her grander counterpart. Eglise Saint Julien-le-Pauvre, a Greek Melkite Catholic church, begun in the Romanesque style in the 12th century with a dramatic dark, gothic interior, where you can almost hear the haunting chant of monks long past. And almost as though God himself guided us, we found our way to a consecutive string of other ancient Latin Quarter churches along our path including the gothic and glowing Eglise Saint-Severin and the majestic – albeit crumbling – Saint-Sulpice, towering grand and mysterious and seeming slightly neglected in her courtly majesty. Each of these religious monuments felt as though we were walking along a timeline of history in the footsteps of countless past Parisians.
Leaving Saint-Sulpice, we gathered a few lunch-time picnic treats and settled into the Jardin du Luxembourg. As the rain subsided, the gardens glowed and bustled – statues gleaming, the leaves of the trees turning slightly golden in the September sun. Sitting in one of the many side gardens, this stop was the perfect pause to revive and refresh and from there we made our way over a few short blocks to our next adventure through the Middle Ages.
With a lifelong curiosity of the medieval age, I have long wanted to visit Musee du Cluny, a former Roman bath turned medieval-era Abbey. The museum houses one of the largest collections of art and artifacts from the Middle Ages, including the famous 15th century Lady & the Unicorn tapestries. Salvaged in the late 1800’s, these tapestries have been meticulously restored to near pristine condition and are an awe-inspiring end to the tour through this beautifully reinvented historic property. The medieval era comes to life as you pass through the various rooms, amazed by the workmanship produced by artisans from so long ago.
Along the Seine, a Path Through Paris
As a grand finale, we ended our whirlwind day with one last walk along the famous waterway that divides the beautiful City of Light. The bridges along the Seine arch gracefully over the gray waters, carrying traffic and tourists to their destinations. Each bridge also tells a story of Paris’s past, traveling through time each has its own indelible historic style. The grandest of these being Pont Alexandre III, with its golden-winged statues and sweeping views resembling a gleaming crown laid out for all to admire. From here you can see almost all of the city’s best-known landmarks including Les Invalides, the Eiffel Tower, and the Grand Palais while the Louvre and Notre Dame keep watch in the distance. It’s here you can truly feel the heartbeat of the city – the romance, the history, the beauty that is quintessentially Paris.
Our Impromptu Itinerary at a Glance
- Arrival Afternoon – Ile de la Cite & walk along the Right Bank
- Late Lunch – Angelina’s Cafe & Patisserie on the Rue de Rivoli
- Walk back to Hotel Eugenie through the Jardins des Tuileries & photos in front of the Louvre
- Dinner – Bouillon Racine, 6th Arrondissement
- Following Morning – tour of Notre Dame de Paris on the Ile de la Cite followed by a bite at Shakespeare & Co. Cafe & a visit to the Shakespeare & Company bookstore
- Mid-Morning Walk – Eglise Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, Eglise Saint-Severin, & Saint-Sulpice
- Lunch – picnic in Jardins du Luxembourg
- Early Afternoon – tour of Musee de Cluny
- Late Afternoon – walk along the Seine to Pont Alexandre III
Tips for a Perfect 28 hours in Paris
- Go prepared for any type of weather; we were there in late September and it was chilly and rainy. I’ve also been to Paris in mid-March and experienced snow, check the weather before you go!
- Wear comfortable shoes & clothing, you’ll walk A LOT and nothing is worse than blisters, it’s okay to wear what I call “travel chic”!
- Go with the flow – walking the streets of Paris is the best way to experience unexpected moments. Have a loose idea of what you want to see but if you stay in the central part of the city, you can cover a lot of ground in a short period of time.
- End the visit with a spectacular view! The Pont Alexandre III seemed the perfect exclamation point to our 28 hour story!
Despite the gray weather, our all-too-brief visit to Paris was filled with pure magic. No itinerary could have planned it better! Bisous!
